Tulips in autumn: how and when to plant, preparation for winter

Tulips in autumn: how and when to plant, preparation for winter

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Garden plants

Tulips - one of the most beautiful spring flowers, and there is hardly a single garden in which tulips do not bloom in spring. It should be noted that, in addition to decorative qualities, these flowers have another advantage - unpretentiousness. Fiddle with them a little, and the result is always worth the effort. But like every plant, tulips have their own growing conditions. For example, tulip bulbs are best planted in open ground in mid-autumn, before winter.
Autumn planting of tulips is a responsible business, because the attractiveness of your spring flower bed depends on how successful it will be. Therefore, when planning to plant tulips in the fall, think in advance and prepare the whole process to the smallest detail.

When to plant tulips in the fall in the ground

Landing dates

It takes at least four weeks to root the bulbs in the ground, and if tulips are planted late, the bulbs may not have time to grow roots before frost, and in spring your tulips will be late in bloom or not bloom at all. In any case, plants planted late in the ground will be weaker and more susceptible to disease.

What month to plant tulips? The optimal time for planting tulips is from the end of September to the end of October. However, both climatic and weather conditions in September in different regions can be very different, therefore, it is better to determine the time of planting tulips not by the calendar, but by the condition of the soil and weather. You can plant tulip bulbs in the garden when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm is not higher or lower than 7-8 ºC - at a lower or higher temperature, it may be difficult to root the bulbs.

When to plant in the suburbs

Tulip bulbs should meet winter in the ground with a well-developed root system, but it should not be allowed that, having formed it, the bulbs continue their growing season and begin to grow leaves.

Therefore, the answer to the question "When to plant tulips in the Moscow region?" important for all gardeners in central Russia. Rooting of bulbs takes place at a temperature of 7-10 ºC, provided that it will not be colder than 3 ºC at night. Usually, such a temperature in the Moscow region lasts from the third decade of September to mid-October, therefore, the planting of tulips in the fall in the Moscow region is carried out around this time, unless, of course, the weather suddenly interferes with your plans.

Tulips in autumn in the Leningrad region

When to plant tulips before winter in St. Petersburg? In the Leningrad Region, tulips are planted in the ground at about the same time as in the Moscow Region - from the second half of September, when it’s Indian summer.

When to plant tulips in the Urals

Planting tulips in the fall in the Urals depends on the region: in the Middle Urals, tulips can be planted from September 10 to 20, and in the South - until October 10.

Landing in Siberia

In Siberia, the conditions for growing flowers are much more severe than even in the Urals, but, nevertheless, tulips grow in this region with frosty winters. In what month are tulips planted in autumn in Siberia? Frosts in these places come early, so planting tulips in August, in its last decade, is considered quite reasonable. And if autumn does not collapse from the first days of September, then the bulbs can be planted until the middle of the first autumn month.

Planting tulips in the ground before winter

Soil for tulips

Before planting tulips, prepare for them a sunny, wind-protected area with low groundwater levels and loose neutral or slightly alkaline soil, preferably sandy. Heavy clay soils are diluted with sand.

Sour soil before planting the bulbs must be limed - add 200-500 g of chalk or slaked lime for each m² of the area, depending on the acidity level of the soil. It is advisable to dig deeply the land on the site, adding 100-150 g of wood ash, 2 buckets of peat (humus of two to three years old or compost), 50 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium sulfate and 25 g of ammonium nitrate for each m².

But do not use fresh manure either as fertilizer or for the subsequent mulching of the site, as this can lead to root burns and fungal diseases. Also, do not apply chlorine-containing mineral fertilizers to the area with tulips.

What depth to plant

To correctly position tulip bulbs in the soil, you need to follow this rule: the planting depth is equal to three diameters of the bulb. That is, small bulbs are immersed to a depth of 7-8 cm, and large ones - by 12-15 cm.But when planting, one should take into account the composition of the soil: on light soils, the bulbs are planted 2-3 cm deeper than normal, and on heavy soils - by 2- 3 cm smaller. When planted too deep, the bulbs almost do not form children, and if too shallow, they can suffer from frost.

Tulip bulbs should be carefully examined, damaged and diseased ones should be discarded, and dense, spotless bulbs should be selected for planting. As a preventive measure, immediately before planting in the ground, hold the bulbs for half an hour in a pink solution of potassium permanganate. If the fall is dry, spill holes or furrow before planting with water.

We are often asked how to beautifully plant tulips on the site. Everyone has their own idea of ​​beauty, so it's up to you whether to plant tulips along garden paths, islands on the lawn or in a mixed flower bed next to other spring flowers - muscari, spring flowers, hyacinths, crocuses and irises. Arrange the bulbs in a row at a distance of 8-10 cm from each other with at least 20-25 cm row spacing - on average, up to 50 large bulbs can be planted per square meter.

When planting, dust the bulb with wood ash, place it in a hole or furrow and make sure that an air pocket does not form under the bottom of the bulb - lightly press the bulb into the ground, then sprinkle it on all sides with sand, and then with a mixture of peat and humus. After planting, tamp the surface of the area and water it.

Grouping tulips by cultivar will make it easier for yourself to care for them. Small bulbs are planted closer to the south so that the flowers that have grown from large bulbs do not cover them from the sun.

Caring for tulips after planting

Autumn care

You will not have to take care of the bulbs this year, except that in the case of an abnormally dry autumn, you will need to water the tulips, and when the subzero temperature is set and the soil freezes to a depth of 4-5 cm, you will need to cover the tulip planting with mulching material - a layer of sawdust, peat, chopped bark or straw 3-5 cm thick. In the middle lane this happens in November, and in Siberia frosty days can be expected at the end of September.

Caring for tulips in winter

In a winter with little snow, scrape around the yard and throw a small snowdrift on the tulips - under the snow tulips will be perfectly preserved in winter and will rise together in spring.

How to store tulips until autumn planting

Keep the dug out bulbs clean, free of soil, excess roots and leaves. Place the dug out bulbs in a single layer in a box or box and keep in the fresh air in the shade until they dry out - dry bulbs can be easier to remove from dirt, leaves and dead scales. Before storage, pickle the bulbs in a pink solution of potassium permanganate - this way the plants will receive the manganese necessary for future flowers, and at the same time protection from diseases and pests.

The bulbs are stored in a wooden box with sawdust that absorbs excess moisture, and it is advisable to wrap each bulb in a piece of newspaper. The box is placed in a dry, cool room with good ventilation and an air temperature not exceeding 25 ºC. Towards autumn, the temperature is lowered to 20 ºC, and then to 15 ºC.


  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the Liliaceae family
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online
  5. Information about Garden Plants
  6. Information on Perennial Plants
  7. Information about Herbaceous plants

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Planting tulips - in spring, autumn, how to plant correctly, optimal timing

Tulips are very popular and showy flowers. Their large, velvety, lush buds are a symbol of spring. To enjoy a bouquet of captivating flowers in spring, you need to strictly adhere to planting dates and care rules. In this article we will tell you how to properly plant tulips - in autumn, spring, when and how to plant bulbs in the ground.

Tulips are distinguished by a thin and beautiful stem ending in a round flower of intense color. Originally from Turkey, these flowers came to the Netherlands in the 16th century and have become an integral symbol of this country and a real star of flower exhibitions and festivals. Then tulips became popular in many countries. Tulips planted in autumn before winter bloom in spring, and their rich color and multicolor create a delightful rainbow in flower beds and in front gardens.

These graceful flowers bloom successfully in cozy backyard gardens. You can plant them individually or create colorful flower arrangements. In every garden, it is worth creating a real carpet of flowers or a small flower bed.

Choosing a soil for planting tulips in autumn

I planted these tulips at the end of August - not the best time, but they wintered well. In the photo, they are already fading, only a few weeks are left before the bulbs are excavated.

Tulips grow best of all on well-cultivated light and cohesive sandy loam with a fertile layer of at least 40 cm thick. The optimum soil pH is about 7.0 ... 7.5, that is, the reaction of the soil solution should be neutral or slightly alkaline. Planting tulips in acidic soil is not even worth it: from experience I know that they grow very poorly. The most stringent requirements for the soil are imposed when planting tulips on a bulb - the more fertile the soil, the faster the bulbs of the first analysis will turn out from the baby.

Growing in the sand

Cultivated sandy loam is the best soil for growing tulips. True, this cute orange-red in 2017 still did not come out of wintering.

In poor sandy soil, the roots and bulbs of tulips regularly dry out: therefore, even if the plants survive, you will not get large bulbs or good flowering. On such soils, it is necessary to introduce a large amount of humus - about 20 ... 30 kg per square meter. You can also add clay.

Growing on clay soils

Tulips also grow poorly on heavy loams - firstly, because the bulbs get wet in rainy weather, and secondly, because of the unfavorable air regime. You can improve the composition of the soil by introducing coarse river sand and, again, organic matter.


It is best to plant tulips over black fallow after turf or green manure. But all this is not suitable for a small area: there is no need to choose. In any case, tulips should not be grown in areas where other lily plants grew, as they share common diseases and pests.

If we are talking about production plantings for obtaining marketable bulbs, tulips should be re-placed in the same area no earlier than 5 years later, and preferably after grasses.

Other useful materials

When to dig tulip bulbs

Ideally, the tulip bulbs should be dug up annually to sort them out, remove damaged ones, let them dry, and prepare them for fall planting. In the Moscow region, the best time to dig tulip bulbs is late June and early July. Usually the bulbs are dug up when the aboveground fate has already turned yellow, but has not yet dried completely

When to plant lilies

Lilies should be planted at a time when the flowers have already wilted, and the seeds are not yet ripe. For most species and varieties, this is September. Lilies planted in September will have time to take root and prepare for winter. When it comes to planting with seeds, bulbous scales, bulbs, etc., the optimal planting time may vary.

Growing tulips outdoors

Choosing bulbs for planting

It is advisable to buy tulip bulbs before the start of the planting season. The most suitable time for this is late July - mid September, when they are at rest. It will be very difficult to acquire quality planting material during the planting season. In the spring, as a rule, they sell old bulbs that did not have time to sell last season.

Preference should be given to bulbs with a thin golden skin. Cracks on them shouldn't scare you. The main thing is that the bulb itself is not damaged, since the planting material is easily injured.

A thick, dense bulb with dark brown scales indicates that it is not suitable for planting, and the roots will be very difficult to germinate.

If it is not possible to immediately plant flowers, tulip bulbs are removed in a cool room. They are kept separate from other bulbs. If diseased bulbs are found, they will infect healthy ones.

In terms of size, it is best to use young, healthy, medium-sized bulbs. They should look good. On an unsuitable for planting bulb there will be mechanical damage, mold spots, dried pulp.

The surface of the bulb must be firm and clean. It will not be superfluous to take the onion in your hand. Low weight indicates illness. A healthy bulb feels heavy to the touch.

When buying, you need to inspect the bottom of the bulb. On quality bulbs, root tubercles are visible. You should not buy planting material with a soft bottom, rotten or sprouted roots.

When should tulips be planted? Landing time and dates

Central Asia is the homeland of almost all varieties of tulips. In their natural environment, they grow in steppes, deserts, foothills, in mountainous arid regions. In early spring, they form bright flowering carpets. With the onset of heat, beautiful tulips fade. But the bulbs continue to exist, going deeper into the ground. In the fall, new roots appear on them. In the spring, awakening from winter sleep, tulips bloom again, delighting us with their beauty.

In nature, tulips bloom only after winter cooling. During this time, they accumulate special nutrients that help them germinate.

Planting tulips in autumn

Experienced flower growers plant tulips only in autumn. Planting time depends on the region where the flowers are grown and the climatic conditions.

In the middle lane, tulips are best planted at the end of September.

In the southern regions, they have been doing this since the beginning of October, when the thermometer readings drop to 7-10 ° C. The root system of the bulbs is formed in 3-4 weeks. It should be borne in mind that the weather can make its own adjustments.

With early planting, the rooting process is delayed, the bulbs can get sick with fusarium. In addition, in warm weather, the garden bed can become overgrown with weeds, which will take away the strength from the tulips.

Planting flowers too late is also not recommended. Due to frost, the root system may not form. They can rot or freeze. Usually, these tulips do not bloom well, their bulbs are not suitable for further planting.

If the bulbs are planted in November, they are covered with spruce branches or foliage for the winter.

If the recommended planting dates are missed, it is better to plant tulips before the beginning of December, covering the flower beds with straw or dry leaves. Flowers planted in spring will lag behind in development.

Planting tulips in spring

Spring is an unfavorable time for planting tulips. Flowers, of course, will grow, but they will bloom later. To speed up flowering, the bulbs are placed in the refrigerator overnight before planting.

After cooling, they are washed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and planted in open ground. This must be done by April. If there are still frosts in your area at this time, the bulbs are first planted in containers, and then carefully transplanted into a flower bed.

Site selection and site preparation for tulips

  • Tulips will be most comfortable in a well-lit place.
  • Graceful flowers cannot stand drafts, so they must be protected from strong winds.
  • They are suitable for areas with a flat surface that are protected from groundwater.
  • For normal growth and development, flowers need a thick, fertile layer of soil.
  • They like loose soils with neutral to moderate acidity.

When choosing a place for planting, it is worth considering which plant was grown here before. Vegetables and flowers are considered good predecessors. In order to avoid infection with viral diseases, they cannot be planted in the place of nightshades and bulbs.

Tulip growth is highly dependent on the choice of soil. It should be loose, fertile, moisture and air permeable. Loamy soils and sandy loams, rich in humus, are most suitable for them. Other soils can be enriched by applying certain fertilizers.

Sandy lands dry up quickly and contain few nutrients. To eliminate these disadvantages, tulips will have to be watered more often and fed with mineral fertilizers.

Heavy clay soils will be more difficult. In order for them to become suitable for tulips, coarse river sand, peat, rotted manure are introduced into them. This will help increase the permeability of the soil. When using peat, its increased acidity is neutralized with chalk or lime. During the period of intensive growth, heavy soils should be loosened more often.

In the spring, at the site of the future planting of tulips, slowly decomposing organic fertilizers should be applied to the soil. Rotted manure or compost works well.

Planting tulips

Only healthy and high quality bulbs are suitable for growing. Before planting, all bulbs must be carefully inspected in order to identify contaminated material in time.

If you are going to plant bulbs that you have grown on your own, they must be etched in a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate within 30 minutes. Planting material purchased from a specialized store or garden center is fully prepared for planting.

For planting tulips, it is necessary to prepare beds 1-1.2 meters wide with longitudinal or transverse furrows. The length of the ridge can be of any size.

The prepared bulbs are carefully pressed into the bottom of the furrow, so as not to damage the root system, they are covered with earth.

Planting depth depends on bulb size and soil type.

On light soils, tulips are planted deeper than on heavy ones. A distance of 20 cm is kept between the rows.The bulbs are planted every 9-10 cm.

Many growers use a tube to plant tulips. To do this, take a metal tube 5 cm in diameter with a piston that can be fixed. Having chosen a column of earth of the required depth, an onion is lowered into the hole, and the earth is pushed out with a piston. This method has many advantages. Correctly planted bulbs will be protected from damage and hands will not freeze.

Plastic baskets are also used for planting tulips.... This method is simple. The bulbs are carefully laid out on the bottom of the basket, the container is placed in the prepared recess and sprinkled with earth. Flower bulbs will not be lost in the soil. They can be dug up at any time.

When tulips are mass-planted in a prepared area, a layer of soil 10-15 cm thick is removed, the bulbs are laid out and sprinkled with earth. With this planting method, you can make a floral pattern using tulips of different colors.

Tulip planting video

Tulip care rules

Despite the fact that tulips are unpretentious plants that are resistant to various diseases, improper care of these modest flowers can lead to rotting of the bulbs, deformation of the stem and the appearance of blind buds.

Well-prepared soil makes it much easier to care for flowers.

As a rule, tulips come out from under the snow in late March - early April. If you covered the flowers for the winter, the mulch is removed immediately when the snow melts. The earth will warm up faster, and tulips will bloom earlier.

When the first sprouts of flowers appear, they must be carefully examined in order to identify defective and diseased bulbs. To prevent the disease from spreading to healthy tulips, bad bulbs are dug up and destroyed.

To increase the access of oxygen to the roots, the soil around the sprouts must be carefully loosened. This procedure is carried out throughout the entire period of intensive tulip growth. It is especially important to loosen the soil after watering.

Tulips need moderate watering before flowering. Overdrying of the top layer of the earth should be avoided.

Fertilizing tulips:

  1. When the sprouts appear from the ground, they must be fed with nitrogenous fertilizers so that the foliage will grow.
  2. The second feeding is carried out when several tulip sheets have unfolded. This time you need to use complex mineral fertilizers.
  3. During the period of bud formation, flowers really need phosphorus and potassium.
  4. The last time complex mineral fertilizers are applied when the buds are blooming.

During feeding, precautions should be taken so that the flowers do not get burned. Fertilizers are applied in cloudy weather or during watering.

During flowering, watering tulips should be abundant, watered them only with warm water. In order for them to develop well, they should be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Manganese, zinc and boron contribute to the development of bulbs.

During flowering, tulips are also examined, digging up diseased specimens.

The flowering of tulips ends very quickly. After wilting, the flowers are watered for another 2-3 weeks. The inflorescences that have faded must be pinched off so that the plant does not waste energy on the formation of seeds.

When to dig up tulips?

Common red varieties usually grow in one place for several years without digging up and replanting. But varietal tulips, in order to preserve their decorative effect, need to be dug up. Otherwise, they will go deeper into the ground, and the flowers will become smaller.

At the end of mid-June, when the leaves wilt by half and become soft, you can start digging.

After removing from the ground, the bulbs are cleaned and dried in the shade. Then they are placed in boxes or boxes in a thin layer and left until autumn in a room with a temperature of about 20 ° C. It must be well ventilated.

It is necessary to sort out and check the bulbs during storage - remove sick and rotten ones immediately.

Video on digging and storing bulbs

Propagation of tulips

Tulips can be propagated by seeds and babies.

The seed method is very long - it is a job for professionals and for breeding new varieties. Seeds are sown in boxes and grown for 3 years in one place, then planted on a separate bed for growing. And they have been growing for several years. The first flowering can be 5-6 years after sowing. And they become truly decorative after 10 years.

And at the same time the varietal characteristics of the parents are not inherited. So tulips are cross-pollinated flowers.

It is easier and faster to grow tulips from babies. Moreover, children retain the varietal characteristics of the parent onion.

For small onions to form sooner, you need to cut the flower during flowering. Then, at the usual time, we dig out the onion, after the leaves have wilted.

Small bulbs are separated and planted in a separate bed in the fall. They cover for the winter. They are grown for two to three years, flowers are plucked out. Let it grow a good, full-bodied bulb before flowering.

Every summer, they are dug up, like the adult flowering bulbs.

Mouse protection

Mice are very fond of feeding on bulbs left in the ground. To protect the flowers from rodents, daffodils and hazel grouses must be planted on the site next to the tulips. The bulbs of these plants are poisonous to mice. Also, pests cannot stand cinoglossum beds.

You can take care of the safety of the bulbs in advance by carefully treating them from a spray bottle before planting with kerosene or Vishnevsky ointment. Mice are also deterred by the smell of red ground pepper. In the fight against rodents, you can use granular poison. It is buried next to beautiful tulips.

Plant tulips with pleasure in your plots - planting and caring for them will not bother you now!

How to prepare a vegetable garden for winter

Why do you think some gardeners have less harvest from year to year, while others have bins full every autumn? And these owners do not live in the north and south, but in the neighboring areas?

No, not because the lucky neighbor knows the "cock's word", but because he observes the basic rule of the farmer: "How much from the land you took, put so much back into it."

Do you follow this rule? If not, start tomorrow, and in a couple of years you will not recognize your land and you will rightfully be proud of the harvests you have received.

True, I am not claiming that this is an easy way, but starting to move in the direction of "organic farming", you will understand that it is the right one.

The first step is to understand that the soil should in no case go open and plowed (dug up) in the winter.

Why? The first rain (and in autumn this phenomenon is not uncommon), having thoroughly soaked the carefully loosened earth, will turn it into liquid mud, and then into a monolith, clogging all the pores and small holes. Spring flood waters, not finding the opportunity to penetrate deep through this "asphalt" and not encountering obstacles in their path, will flow off your site, taking with them the upper fertile layer, eroding even small slopes.

How to protect the soil in the fall and get it loose and soft in the spring?

One of the most effective ways is soil mulching. What is mulching? Mulch is any substrate with which we cover the soil. It can consist of organic substances: straw, bark and shavings from trees, sawdust, walnut shells, seed husks, mowed lawn grass, weeds, small twigs, newspapers, cardboard, peat, compost. And also mulch can be of an inorganic nature: fine gravel, marble and granite screenings, brick chips, covering synthetic materials (agrospan, lutrasil, spunbond, geotextile).

If you have the opportunity, cover the beds in October-November with straw, sawdust, weeds (only without seeds), peat. If these materials are not available, then simply cover the ground with multi-layered newspaper sheets, magazines, cardboard.

For interest, you can compare two beds that came out of winter in the spring. On the one that was covered, the earth is soft, porous, loose, without a hint of being washed away by spring waters. The soil on the second, uncovered bed, will be dense, "concreted", with clear signs of stormy water descended.

The second way to preserve porous soil in the spring is to sow green manures in the fall.

"Siderata" are plants sown in order to increase soil fertility, protect it from weeds, get rid of diseases and pests.

How do green manures work in autumn? Some of them gain good green mass by November (mustard, rapeseed, oats, peas) and, freezing in winter, act as mulch, i.e. cover the ground with a soft carpet, rotting in the spring and introducing additional organic matter into the ground, mineral substances that the green manure carried out from the depth of the arable layer.

Others, perennial (rye, alfalfa, sainfoin, lupine), also act as a protective carpet, but in the spring they continue to develop, pierce the ground with their roots, creating a system of capillaries, passages that allow air and moisture to freely penetrate into the soil. Due to this, soil microorganisms, worms, bacteria, fungi multiply rapidly. All of them create humus, which increases soil fertility. Spring waters flow freely into the depths. There is no trace of erosion. The dense green mass of green manures in the spring gives an abundance of organic mulch, which is used to cover the beds.

The substances secreted by some green manure scare off pests and prevent diseases from developing.

If you didn't manage to plant tulips in autumn - what to do?

Sometimes it may happen that you got the bulbs after the autumn planting dates have passed. Do not store them at home in order to plant them in the spring. Chances are good that the onions will go bad. You can save the planting material in a flower pot.

The container should be wide, with low sides and drainage holes. The bottom of the pot is lined with a thin cloth, any loose soil is poured to a height of 5 cm, then tulip bulbs are laid close to each other. They must first be etched in the same way as we do before planting in a flower bed, soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate or fungicide.

From above, the onions are covered with a layer of earth 7 cm thick and watered. For 3 weeks, the container is stored at home at room temperature. After a specified time, the pots are wrapped in a plastic bag and several layers of covering material, and then taken out for storage on the balcony. Tulips will stay there until spring, with the arrival of warmth they are planted on the site.

If you wish, you can arrange for forcing flowers, for example, by March 8th. Those who do not have a balcony can take the bulbs in a pot to their dacha and also, after wrapping them up, dig in the snow. In the spring, when the soil thaws, the bulbs are very carefully removed from the pot, trying not to damage the regrown young roots, and planted in the garden.

When to plant tulips, daffodils, lilies, crocuses and other bulbs in the fall

Autumn bulbous flowers: tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, imperial hazel grouses, decorative bows, muscari, crocuses, small-bulbous plants (scillas, chionodx, pushkinia, woodland) must be bought and planted in the fall, and they bloom next spring. Off-season bulbs - lilies - are planted both in spring and autumn. When planted in spring, off-season bulbs bloom in the same year, and when planted in autumn, the next. Find out the favorable terms for buying and planting bulbous plants.

The main flow of planting material comes to us from countries with a longer growing season. Therefore, each bulb crop has its own optimal purchase dates and planting times.

How to choose good bulbs

When buying tulips, daffodils, lilies and other plants, pay attention to the size of the bulb, the quality of flowering depends on it. Examine the bulbs. They should be dense, in no case wilted, not have soft rotten places, a moldy smell. Pay attention to the bottom of the bulb - it must be dry and dense, this is the key to the health and vitality of the plants. Small bulbs and plant species have smaller bulbs, which is normal.

In hyacinths, the color of the covering scales of the bulbs, as a rule, resembles the color of the inflorescences. In addition, in pink, purple, blue hyacinths, the bulbs are usually wide-conical, in yellow and orange ones, narrowly conical, and in whites, they are ovoid. Varieties of different colors should have different bulbs.

It is very risky to buy lily bulbs after distillation. They are very light, as the supply of nutrients has been depleted in their scales. They do not bloom the next year. If you are attracted to the price and agree to skip two or three flowering seasons, you can buy lilies after distillation.

You need to order and pay for bulbous plants with delivery by mail in advance so that by the planting season you have already received the parcel.

How to properly process bulbs before planting

Free the prepackaged bulbs from the packaging at home, immediately discard the heavily damaged ones. Before planting, clean and treat newly purchased bulbs from infections. Bulbs infected with penicillus rot are often commercially available, especially on tulips and lilies.The disease manifests itself in the form of gray-green sporulation on the integumentary scales of the bulb. If the penicillus spots are small, the bulb can be healed. Often on outwardly healthy bulbs, if you remove the integumentary scales, you can find the first signs of fusarium: grayish depressed spots surrounded by a brighter border. They should be removed to avoid introducing infection into the garden. Peel the bulbs, sprinkle the cuts with crushed charcoal or powdered fungicide. Let the slice dry and cork slightly for 2-3 days.

Before planting, treat the bulbs in a liquid dressing agent (Vitaros, Maxim) according to the instructions.

In the photo: Bulbs of hyacinths

How and where to plant bulbous plants in the garden

The planting depth of the bulb can be calculated using the “rule of three”: from the bottom to the soil surface there should be a distance equal to the height of the bulb, multiplied by 3. On heavy soil, it is better to reduce the planting depth by 20%.

During the growing season and flowering, bulbs need sun, but when they are at rest, lighting is not so important. Small-bulbous flowers blooming in early spring can be planted among deciduous trees, which bloom around the time when the foliage of these flowers dies off.

Bulbous plants do not tolerate stagnant water, but, as a rule, are demanding on the availability of nutrition and moisture during the growing season. The best choice for them is nutritious and moisture-intensive, but well-drained loamy soil. On sandy soil, additional watering and reinforced top dressing are required.

Plants whose bulbs need to be dug up for the summer (tulips, hyacinths, hazel grouses), can be planted in beds with rapidly growing annuals and biennials: nasturtiums, scented tobacco, viols, forget-me-nots, daisies. They will decorate empty spaces in the flower garden.

In what time frame do you need to plant autumn bulbous

1. First, in late August - early September, plant small-bulbous: scilla, muscari, pushkinia, chionodox, crocuses.

2. Gradually move to planting daffodils in late August to early September, then plant tulip bulbs around mid-September. In principle, tulips can be planted until the first decade of November, the main thing with late planting is to mulch the plants well.

3. It is better not to rush with planting hyacinths. The most favorable moment is the second decade of October, when the temperature reaches about + 8 ° С.

Is it possible to plant bulbs, for example, in July – August? Yes, but they begin to take root at a soil temperature of about + 10 ° C, and until that time they will lie in the ground, where onion flies, wireworms, weeds and various diseases lie in wait for them.

Is it possible to buy bulbs late - at the end of autumn - and how to plant them?

You can buy non-sprouted bulbs at the fall sales. Many firms offer good discounts on so-called expired bulbs. In slightly frozen soil, you can plant, for example, tulip bulbs without compromising flowering for the next year. When planting, such bulbs must be covered for the winter. Bulbous shelter should be dry and well ventilated.

To plant the bulbs in cold ground, you first need to place them in a pot with garden soil, use a drill or scrap in the frozen soil to make a sufficient deepening, put the pot, bury, cover the planting site with peat and cover it with covering material (spunbond, lutrasil).

If during late planting the bulbs (corms) were covered from above with spruce branches (film, non-woven material, foliage, etc.) or a large layer of compost, then in the spring, before flowering, the mulching layer must be raked off, and the covering materials must be removed.

When to buy lilies: fall or spring?

We get a new crop in the spring from industrial refrigerated storage facilities. In the fall, on the shelves, as a rule, there are one-year-old bulbs ready to start growing, and sometimes even bulbs with sprouts. It is better not to buy such lilies. Therefore, in the fall, it is worth buying bulbs only from local producers, and imported bulbs in the spring. Many people buy lily bulbs in winter, in January, February, when the first exhibitions begin to work. These bulbs should be refrigerated and stored in their packaging. If the sprouts grow large and continue to grow, then the bulbs should be planted in a container and kept in a bright, cool place.

Is it possible to buy lilies with sprouts? In the spring you can buy lilies with sprouts. In the fall, you should not buy lilies with sprouts. When planted, they will continue to grow and die the first time they freeze.

When to plant lilies - in spring or autumn?

The most favorable planting time for lily bulbs is early September. The bulbs planted at this time will root perfectly and overwinter well - the bulbs are at rest and will not start growing. But in the fall it is difficult to find good planting material. Basically, they sell bulbs that have remained after the spring sale and have been in the refrigerator for almost a year.

The optimal timing for planting lilies is the end of August, September and even October. Do not plant lilies too late as they take time to root. With late planting, the bulbs do not have time to build up a sufficient mass of roots and hibernate worse.

When planting lilies late, it is better to make a shelter. Cut the branches of the bushes and arrange them over the bulbs in a "hut". Cover with oak foliage (it overheats and cakes least of all). Cover the top with an inverted vegetable drawer, then with a waterproof material (the ends of the drawer should be ventilated). Press down on the cover with heavy objects.

Lilies can also be planted in spring. When planted in spring, the bulbs bloom in the same year. But with spring planting, you most likely have the bulbs after cold storage and when they are transferred to heat, they grow quite quickly. Therefore, the landing time will be rather limited. You need to have time to plant the bulbs while the sprouts are still small. If they have reached 10-15 cm, then the bulbs must be planted sideways so that the sprouts can be laid in the groove next to them almost horizontally. They will gradually take an upright position and the plant will bloom in the same year, although it may be weaker. When planted in spring, the bulbs waste time growing the root system to the detriment of growth and flowering, and sometimes simply rot the next winter.

The optimal time for planting and replanting lilies in regions with short summers (Moscow region, Leningrad region, Ural, Siberia) - mid - end of August. In the southern regions, the planting dates are shifted about a month later, in the northern ones, on the contrary, earlier.

The optimal time for transplanting and planting lilies in central Russia is August-September, in the southern regions - October. In principle, you can plant later, when the soil temperature is close to zero, but in this case you will have to cover the plants well for the winter.

When to plant and plant daffodils

Daffodils should be dug up later than tulips, as soon as the foliage is almost completely yellow (June-July), and planted earlier - until the end of September. The optimal time for planting daffodils is the second half of August, since the roots of daffodils grow most actively in September. In central Russia, daffodils are planted from about August 20 to September 1. If they are planted later, along with the tulips, they will not have time to develop the root system, which means that they will winter worse.

Daffodil bulbs planted after dry storage (without roots), it is better to mulch with fallen leaves (layer thickness of at least 10 cm), in the future this operation will not be necessary, since daffodils can grow in one place for 5-7 years. The only exceptions are split-crowned daffodils, which are mulched annually.

When to plant hyacinths

Hyacinth bulbs are planted in the conditions of central Russia (Moscow region, Leningrad, Vologda, Kostroma and other regions) and South Urals late September - early October. Like tulips, if they are planted too early, hyacinths can start growing and die in winter, and if they are late, they will not have time to take root before the soil freezes to the depth of planting. However, hyacinths can be planted until the first half of November. But then the place should be insulated in advance with leaves or other material from those that are at hand, and protected with a film from rain and snow. And after planting, re-lay the insulation.

Experts advise preparing the site for planting hyacinths in August, two months before planting, otherwise the natural sediment of the soil can cause the breakage of roots, which will begin to develop in the fall. When planting in holes, it is advisable to add well-rotted compost or peat, if it was not added during preliminary digging of the soil.

With the onset of stable cold weather, it is better to cover the planting of hyacinths. To do this, you can use dry peat, humus, sawdust, dry fallen leaves and spruce branches. In the spring, as soon as the soil begins to thaw, the shelter must be carefully removed, since hyacinth sprouts appear very early.

After spring home forcing, hyacinth bulbs can also be planted in the garden. But not in the spring, but in the fall. After the leaves wither, the bulbs must be carefully removed from the pot, dried at room temperature, and cleaned of old roots and covering scales. Store in peat, not allowing it to dry out until early September at a temperature of about + 25 ° C.

When to plant crocuses

Crocus is an early spring flower, so most of the varieties of this plant should be planted in the ground before winter, that is, in the fall, in September-October. Planting crocuses on a lawn under fruit trees, next to a water well, where the soil later freezes, will allow you to plant plants even in November. But if you want to get blooming crocuses next spring, you should order and purchase crocus corms at the end of summer.

There are also autumn varieties of crocuses, they bloom in August-September. Their bulbs should be planted in the summer (July-August). Such crocuses are more whimsical and need careful care, weeding and watering. Therefore, they are less popular than early flowering ones. When planting crocus bulbs, it is imperative to take into account their photophilousness: with a lack of light, the buds do not open.

How to plant crocuses in the garden after forcing

Indoor crocuses - plants that have bloomed indoors in a pot - can be planted back into the garden after distillation. After flowering, remove the faded inflorescence so that the plant does not waste energy trying to seed.

Reduce watering gradually, stimulating the flow of nutrients into the bulb. When the leaves turn yellow completely, the bulb is taken out, dried at room temperature, cleaned of old roots and covering scales.

Crocus bulbs after forcing can be planted in the ground as early as May, after the soil has thawed. The plants will not bloom this season, it is unlikely that they will give full bloom next year.

When to plant small bulbous

Small-bulbous plants (crocuses, kandyks, chionodox, muscari, scilla, pushkinia, corydalis, galanthus and others) can not be dug for several years until they grow. When the plants start crowding each other, usually in June, when the leaves turn yellow, the plants are dug up, divided and replanted.

In the second half - end of August, new planting material is planted. Plants should have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. On lighter soils, the bulbs are planted a little deeper, and on heavy soils a little shallower than the standard recommended depth. Small bulbs - baby - are better buried less than adult bulbs.

When to plant tulips

The optimal time for planting tulip bulbs in central Russia (Moscow Region, Leningrad Region, Non-Black Earth Region) and regions with a short summer (Ural, Siberia) falls on the end of September - beginning of October, when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm is about + 10 ° С, and before the soil freezes, plants have time for root formation (about 20-30 days ). Plants that do not have time to root well will be undernourished and stunted. Immediately before planting, it is recommended to soak the bulbs for 30-60 minutes in a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate or special dressing agents (for example, Maxim).

In the case of a prolonged warm autumn, cover the tops of the tulips with peat with a layer of 10 cm so that the plants do not suffer from subsequent frosts.

Tulips that do not require digging for 3-6 years: Kaufman, Foster, Greig, species, as well as Darwinian hybrids, Triumph, Simple early and Simple late... It is better to plant them with drought-resistant perennials with a superficial root system, for example, stonecrop. In summer, moisture is undesirable for the bulbs of such tulips. Stonecrop plantings live in the flower garden for 3-6 years, and when it comes time to dig up the bulbs, stonecrop curtains are carefully removed with a shovel, and after the tulips are harvested, they are returned to the flower garden.

When to plant imperial hazel grouse

Usually hazel grouses are planted in the garden in September-October. Forced later planting of bulbs requires mulching the planting site and covering it with oak leaves for the winter. The hazel grouse bulbs do not have covering scales, so you need to handle them as carefully as possible, to prevent drying out and mechanical damage. If it is not possible to plant hazel grouse bulbs immediately after purchase, protect them from drying out - place them in slightly damp peat or live sphagnum moss and put them in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator.

If you already have imperial hazel grouses in your garden, then when the leaves turn yellow in summer, they must be dug up and stored in a warm, dry place until the roots appear. Usually, new roots grow on the bulb in mid-August - early September. The appearance of roots and shoots is a signal that it is time to plant the stored bulbs. At the bottom of the hole, be sure to pour a small layer of coarse river sand - this will protect the bulbs from decay.

In the photo: Planting tulip bulbs

Watch the video: Planting Spring Bulbs in WInter


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  3. Tumuro

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